FIVE DAYS IN

So after 53 miles we are in the small village of Uterga sitting on the patio at our albergue for the night.  It is 3 in the afternoon and we are done walking for the day.  I have a glass of vino tinto and Cathie a tall cold San Miguel beer.  We munch on Spanish olives, Iberia Ham sliced very thin and fresh baked bread.  Sitting across from us is Dennis and Fran from Australia, who we shared a table with us in Zubiri.  Bill and his wife Diane soon arrive and join us.  In the Camino you keep running into others that you have seen before.  Sometimes it is old home week with hugs and cheek kisses all around when you haven't seen someone for a week.  This is the Camino.

Before going on this Camino when Cathie and I would talk about the trip I would say, "I would like to go slow this time and see more."  Her immediate response was, "It's my Camino and I might want to go faster."  I had also described to her what the 1st couple of days would be like.  I told her that the 1st five miles are the worst and the steepest.

After two days crossing the Pyrenees and another day reaching Zubiri, Cathie has had a change of heart.  She told me that she was satisfied with my planning and said, "You're doing a good job, keep doing what you're doing."  Until such time as you have actually walked, day after day, you can't understand the toll it takes on your body.  So the best advice is to go slow, rest often, take your boots off and air your feet, put on dry socks and enjoy yourself.

Since crossing the Pyrenees, we have walked in below freezing temperatures, on the way into Pamplona we walked in the rain for the last 2 hours, but today, partly cloudy with temperatures in the low 60's.  Great for walking.

We spent Sunday night in Pamplona and being Sunday, many of the restaurants were closed, but we managed to get our sustenance by visiting several tapas bars.  Tapas are small appetizers and at a tapas bar there is a vast selection, all of which are on the bar for you to see.  At the first stop, wine and a beer and 5 tapas for 11 euros.  At the next stop, 6 tapas wine and beer for about 14 euros.  So you get the idea, a meal with wine and beer for 25 euros or about $27.

Our hotel provided breakfast so we were out the door at a leisurely 8:30.  The first several miles were through the city and suburbs, then into the wheat fields and the climb to Alto de Perdón.  With a stop for refreshments in a village below the summit, we arrived at the pass after 4 hours of walking.  On the way we passed a spring, El Fuente Reniega, or Fount of Renunciation.  Legend has it that a pilgrim was extremely thirsty, and the devil came to him in the form of a wanderer and offered to give him water if he would renounce God.  The pilgrim stayed strong in the faith and refused.  Having passed the test, the devil disappeared and Saint James appeared to the pilgrim and offered him water to drink for a scallop shell.  There are many legends like this on the Way of Saint James.

From the pass you can see for miles, both back to Pamplona and to the west with upcoming villages spread out before you.  There is a pilgrim statue here depicting a band of medieval pilgrims walking, pressed forward against the wind.  From the pass it is a steep rocky path down where upon leveling out you are once again passing through fields of wheat.  We were soon at our stop for the night at our albergue when after a shower, visiting with others we sat down for dinner with about 30 other pilgrims.

Where we are staying