OVER THE TOP

There are no shortcuts to any place worth going

After a night of absolutely no sleep, it was actually good to get up and get out of there.  After a quick breakfast of orange juice, bread and coffee the French way, in a bowl, we were out the door into the below freezing air.  Normally the cold air would have woken us up, but we were already awake when we got up.  The cold air did cause us to move on up the hill to get warm.  The plan was to cover just over 12 miles over the Pyrenees.  We could shorten the route slightly by stopping at Roncesvalles and sleeping with about 100 of our fellow pilgrims, but we weren't doing that again.  Actually our plan all along was to stay in private rooms whenever possible and we had reserved a room in a Casa Rural in the next town of Burguete.  It in this small Basque town where Hemingway stayed on many occasions.

As for the climb over the mountains.  I had told Cathie that the first day of 5 miles was the most difficult.  It is for the most part the steepest part of the climb.  The second day, less steep but a much longer day.  Much of the route is on a one lane paved road, which was clear of snow from the overnight storm.  We were lucky and had clear skies and very little wind.  I'm not sure of the temperature, but it was well below freezing because all of the puddles were frozen solid.  A very beautiful walk, Cathie would call it a slog, over the mountains to the pass at just shy of 5,000 feet.  That may not sound like much but we started at just 600 feet above sea level.  It was very beautiful with the fresh snow. 

There is a shelter or hut near the top so one can get out of the weather.   It was windy at this point so we opted to eat our lunch in the hut out of the wind.  Inside we found Jim who we had met on the way up.  A retired U.S. Marine and a Camino veteran.  He offered to share his sausage and cheese with us, which is pretty normal on the Camino.  He noticed that Cathie's back pack was not fitting her properly and offered to adjust it for her, which he did.  This is the Camino, pilgrims helping pilgrims and sharing what they have.

Anyway we did manage to make it over the top and down the other side all in one piece.  We stopped for refreshments before finishing the last 2 miles to our room for the night.  A private room I might add.  Cathie told me that I had lied to her about the first part being the most difficult as she felt it was all hard.

Besides the blog, I've been posting on Facebook and l have received some comments that give me ideas for the blog.  After writing in the last post about the snoring and sleeping with 9 of my closest friends, one person made a comment about how they could never do that.  A person who had previously walked the Camino replied that for her the Albergues was where she made the most intimate connections with other pilgrims.  I have to agree with both persons.  On my Camino 2 years ago, I stayed in Albergues for about a week.  I could not sleep.  So on this Camino it will be private rooms when ever possible.

I do understand both opinions about staying or not staying in albergues.  I made many connections with pilgrims on the trail and in the evenings at the towns where I stayed.  The connections with other pilgrims is one of the best aspects of the Camino.

It is possible to walk the Camino and never stay in an albergues.  There are tour companies that will plan it all out for you and make reservations for the entire way.  Don't want to carry a pack?  That too can be arranged.  There are services that will take your pack or suitcase for you from town to town.  Heck, even the post office in Spain will do that for you.  It is not uncommon to see pilgrims carrying just a small day pack, opting to have the luggage or large pack transported each day or just for a few days if they get tired.  So if one has the desire to partake in this wonderful experience, it can be done.  You want my suggestion? Just do it!

 

 

STARTING UP

 

GETTING COLDER

   

 

 

LOOK! ONLY 765 KM TO GO

 

COLD

GETTING THERE AND STARTING OUR CAMINO

Our travel from Madrid to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP) was again uneventful as it was getting to Madrid.  This is very strange and concerning because everything is going according to plan.  This is not normal, it's good, just not normal.  Anyway we walked from our B&B to the Atocha Station where we met our first fellow pilgrim, Paul, from Tucson, AZ.  You can easily spot fellow pilgrims in big cities as they are carrying a big backpack and have a confused look on their faces.  By the time our train was ready to board, there were many other confused looking pilgrims.  The Spanish rail system is great and we left Madrid exactly at the scheduled departure time of 11:35.  After 3 hours and 5 minutes, again on the dot of the scheduled time we arrived in Pamplona.

 

We shared a cab with Paul to the Pamplona bus station, where we cooled our heels till our bus to SJPDP was ready to leave precisely 5:30.  While waiting for the bus, I checked my e-mail and I had a message from Paola at our Madrid B&B that I had left 40 Euros in our room.  She said she would save it for me as we were staying with her again at the end of our trip.  After 1-1/2 hours we arrived intact, having survived the somewhat harrowing ride provided by our driver, Raul, a close cousin to some guy named Mario.

So, we got off the bus and started walking to our B&B and thought that I should be shooting some video of the occasion.  It was then that I discovered that the GoPro camera was still on the bus.  In a panic, I ran back to the bus stop and our luck was still holding, the bus was still there as was my camera.  Cathie and I decided at that point that it would be her job to make sure that I didn't loose anything and it would be my job to make sure we didn't get lost.

 

SJPDP

Our first day on the Camino was to be a short 5 miles, so we had a late breakfast and made several stops in town before heading out.  It is not required but one should stop at the pilgrims office before heading out.  It is here where you get your first stamp in your Pilgrims Passport and find out about the trail and weather conditions over the Pyrenees.  If the pilgrims office advises you that the weather is dangerous over the pass, pay attention, they know what they are speaking about.  They will suggest a lower route.  People have died crossing over the Pyrenees in bad weather, and if you need to be rescued, the Spanish government will charge you for the service.

Your passport identifies you as a pilgrim and allows you to stay in municipal albergues (hostels) along the way.  At each stop along the way, you get your passport stamped to show where you have been.  Besides stamps at albergues, you can have it stamped at churches, bars, hotels and lots of other places along the Camino.  I also allows you to partake in pilgrim meals offered along the Camino.  These usually consist of 3 courses and come with wine or water.  The choice of wine or water tells you that in Spain, wine is the same price as the water.  I opt to choose the wine, which by the way, is excellent in Spain. 

 

 

ON OUR WAY

So off we went on the Camino.  What the 1st five miles lack in distance is made up in the steepness of the road.  You actually walk a road most of the way, but a steep road non the less.  We took it slow and covered the first day in about 2-1/2 hours, arriving at Rufuge Orrison, our lodging for the night.  At Orrison, the refuge is the only option for lodging and on this night it is booked to capacity.  So for 36 Euros each we get dinner, breakfast, a timed 5 minute hot shower and the privilege of sleeping in a bunk room with 9 of your fellow pilgrims.  Space is limited, so it's best to be friendly.

 

The dinner at Orrison is quite good, a hearty Basque meal of three courses, and of course wine.  After the meal, you are invited to stand, introduce yourself, and if you like say a little something about why you are walking the camino.  It is at the point that you realize how truly international the Camino is.

 

It started snowing just as dinner we getting over, so we shall see what tomorrow brings.

Off to bed at 9, the normal pilgrim bed time.  Being the gentleman I got the top bunk with Cathie below.  Included in our crowded bunk room two gals from Nevada, a husband wife from North Carolina, a Korean couple and their daughter, and a guy who arrived late who I know nothing about.  After about 10 minutes the snoring started and went unabated the entire night.  Two ladies kept the rest of us awake ALL night.  I did manage to get about 20 minutes of sleep.  I know this because at about 2 am, I started playing my music on my phone and I only missed 5 songs on my playlist.  That's when I was asleep.  Ahh, the life of a pilgrim.

 

TODAY IN MADRID

We had uneventful flights, both the London segment and the Madrid were ahead of schedule.  Our connection in London went seamlessly, with short lines at both passport control and security.  After landing in Madrid, we collected our checked bag, hit the ATM for some Euros, and stepped on the bus to the city just as it was leaving.  The bus is the most economical way into central Madrid at 5 Euros a piece for the 25 minute ride.  From the bus stop at the Atocha Rail Station it is a short 20 minute walk to our B&B.  Arriving at 10 pm, Paola, checked us in and after dropping our stuff, we headed out for dinner.

In Spain most restaurants don't even start serving dinner until 8:00,  as the Spaniards eat late.  We chose a little restaurant down the street from our B&B because it was close, but the name drew us in.  It's called the SG and DG.  The initials SG are my father's, Stephen Gassaway and DG are mine.  We pointed this out to the owner who told us that the city would not permit him to put the street number in the name, so he chose the initials of his son and daughter.

We were bushed, so after dinner, at midnight, we headed off to bed.

The next morning, after a great night of sleep I was up at 8 and hung around the dining room drinking copious amounts of coffee while Cathie slept another hour.  With Cathie sort of awake we had breakfast, after which Cathie decided she needed more sleep.  I, on the other hand was ready to explore the neighborhood and run a couple of errands.

We had brought with us a "after the Camino suitcase" with stuff we didn't want to carry with us across Northern Spain.  So the first stop was the post office, who for 23 Euros, is shipping the bag to Santiago where it will wait our arrival.  The second stop was the Votafone store for SIM cards for our phones.  So for 35 Euros, we have voice and data while in Spain for two phones.  The main reason for having phones on the Camino is for us to stay connected with each other if we decide to walk at different paces part of the way.

Since it was now one o'clock I figured Cathie might be interested in lunch, but upon checking, her priority was more sleep.  So back out on the town for me where I had a lite lunch of some tapas and of course a glass of vino tinto (red wine) at an outdoor cafe in Plaze de Santa Ana.  It is here where I am writing this entry to the blog.

Now for some photos:

 

WE'RE OFF

 

PLAZA MAYOR

  

 

 

VIEW FROM OUR BALCONY 

Ready to Go

Thought I would give this a try.

Not sure how that went, perhaps I'll get Cathie to do the narration from now on.  Anyway we will be taking our GoPro camera along and I will attempt to document our journey.  Don't know how many videos I'll be posting as we walk.  Most likely I'll put together a video after we return home. Uploading video via some very slow WIFI is not something I want to spend our time doing, so we shall see.

I will be posting on Facebook as we go along and updating the blog on occasion.  Stay tuned.....

We're off!

THREE MORE WEEKS AND WE'ER OUTTA HERE

We've picked up the pace in our training regime this month, with Cathie joining in.  Walking with our packs around our home we have added about 60 miles on local trails.  In addition I tacked on another 400 miles on the bike.  We both feel pretty good, but there is always those nagging aches and pains people our age experience.  It is true what they say, "Getting older ain't for sissies".   I continue to have some pain in my left shoulder which is now causing pain in my neck, so off the to doctor for my annual Cortisone injection.  In the past this has worked for me, but this year not so much.  It's not painful enough to stop me from walking, but it's there all the time.

With the recent rains in Southern California we are surrounded by green fields as we walk, making our training slightly more pleasant.  Walking the same route over and over gets boring, so we have attempted to mix it up some.

 

We did manage to sneak in a hike in the Anza Borrego Desert and we came upon a grove of the rare Buckethead Cactus.  As an added bonus we were lucky enough to see the endangered Two Footed Blue Chested Buckethead hidden among the cactus.  He is so well camouflaged it is difficult to see him in the photo.  Look closely and you should be able to pick him out.

 

Both Cathie and I participated in a weight loss program with our health insurance carrier.  We have been successful in shedding a bunch of pounds causing us to make one more trip to REI for clothes that fit.  How many pounds you ask?  Cathie lost 40 pounds and looks fantastic.  I lost 70 pounds and look like a skinny old man.  My plan to keep the weight off is to walk the Camino every year.  Now I just have to convince Cathie.

 

We leave for Spain on April 23rd and there may be one more blog post before we leave, but it is my intent to post to the blog on a weekly basis as we walk.  As a reminder, to receive timely notifications of a blog entry, put your e-mail address in place provided one the upper left of this page.  And it goes without saying, comments and questions are always welcome.